Perfect hair formula

Ive been thinking a lot lately about a solid regimen that would give me the best results. My regimen has changed from the last time I posted. I have added new things and taken away things as my quest for hair knowledge expands.

First lets examine the characteristics of healthy hair. Strength and shine are the first things that come to mind. Now lets break down those words. Strength can be gained by ingredients such as protein, henna, ceramides, etc. Shine would come from inner strand health and the condition of the cuticles.

Other factors you may want to consider is shedding and optimal growth. These factors vary from person to person. Diet, chemical make up, scalp care pay a major role. As always, you can find ways to improve shedding and optimal growth topically.

Breakage and shedding severely effect the look of your hair. They both can make your hair appear thin. Breakage can make your hair look unhealthy, uneven, and slow down your growth goal.

Split ends, whoa do we hate them. We can correct that problem with keeping the moisture level at its peak and protecting our ends. Protective styling, sealing the ends with conditioner, oils,etc., and proper hair care can prevent you from getting split ends. I'll get into with another post.

In review, you would want strong shiny hair that grows at it optimal rate with out breakage or shedding. Now the question is, how can we obtain that? Here is my plan.

I will take my vitamins to help the hair and body health.
I will use mahabhringaraj oil to massage my scalp at night to reduce shedding (garlic works too)
I will use product with ceramides to repair the cuticles, breakage, and improve the moisture content. This will help strength AND shine.
I will wear my hair in a silk scarf completely hidden from others until Im comfortable with my length. This is totally optional and there are many different ways to do protective styling.
I will do steam treatments once a week to keep the moisture infused in my hair.
I will use moegro's oil to grow my hair fast and keep my scalp healthy.

Big CHOP!

Im sorry, Im sorry, Im sorry! I have not updated in forever.


On May 26th, I decided to cut off my relaxed ends. I thought about the pros and cons and went for it. Being that I have to wear a scarf because of my hat at work, I thought this would be perfect. I could also hide my hair.

At 3 o'clock is when it happened. I told her I did not care about evenness and that I want to keep every inch of curl that I grew. This heffa made everything even AND I still have relaxed tips in some areas. She said she was not going to even touch the natural hair as far as cutting. Well, a month and a half later, the tips are still there and I have grown well over an inch of hair. According to my standard 1/2" per month growth, I should have had 3" when I big chopped. Now, I have over four inches in some places and it hasnt even been 2 months yet.

Im really starting to like my hair now. When I leave the house, its covered. I rarely wear it out. I wont wear it out during school. Each month, I will post pictures of my hair.

Updating staples

Pre poo - Coconut oil
Chelating shampoo - Joico Chelating shampoo
Moisturizing shampoo - Experimenting with Shikakai & Nioxin for growth. I like Joico moisture recovery (blue bottle)
Protein conditioner - Mega Tek Rebuilder
Deep conditioner - Aussie Deep and Joico Moisture recovery treatment balm.
Smoothing conditioner (optional) - Matrix sleek look
Co washing conditioner - Tresemme Smooth and Silky
Leave in - Giovanni direct leave in with aloe vera and glycerin
Sealer - Moisture block

I truly believe I have the best products for MY hair. I have discovered more 3b type strands. The right side of my head still has some tighter coils but Im mostly a 3.

Lock or Attract?

Victor Sabino has made the best product I have probably ever used. Its called moisture block. Ive mentioned it before. Basically, it is made of 2 silicones that trap the moisture inside your hair and keeps moisture out. One is able to create sleek style that a virtually frizz proof. I will make an entire blog on what it is and how to use it but for now, the issue is, lock in the moisture to your hair...or attract moisture to it for continuous moisture?

Let examine the two possibilities.

1. I can add moisture block to my hair while it is damp and almost dry. The reasonably perfect amount of moisture in the hair is 10% - 11%. How do I suppose to know when my hair is at that level? Who knows. This is why I will try it on damp hair.

2. Natural ingredients such as honey, honeyquat, and glycerin attract moisture from the air and keep the hair moisturize during the day.

Water is something that NEEDS to be in the hair. It keeps it soft, shiny, etc. I would like to test both of these out and see which holds the moisture the MOST according to how it feels. I would also have to document the humidity and weather because those play a role in moisture.

I have glycerin but honeyquat is said to be far more moisturizing than glycerin. So back to the question, lock in the moisture (helpful with steam treatments that help infuse moisture) or use a humectant to keep moisture into my hair. What do you think?

Blood circulation

This is vital to hair growth. Blood circulation at the scalp nourishes the hair follicles to promote growth. Here are ways that can not only encourage hair growth, but also help your body.

1. Exercises such as cardio helps with heart.
2. Scalp massage stimulates the follicles.
3. Use oils that will create a tingling sensation.
4. Certain foods can help (onions, cayenne pepper, turmeric, ginger, garlic, ginkgo, pumpkin seeds, oranges, nuts & watermelon)
5. Hydrotherapy also known as hot and cold shower also works well to improve blood circulation.
6. Body massage
7. Proper breathing
8. Sitz Bath
9. Steam Bath
10. Yoga
11. Try headstands or any position lowering your head below your body several times daily (15 minutes each time).
12. dry brushing your skin
13. reflexology - the nails are connected to the scalp. buffer your nails using the nails on your other hand. Do this for at least 5 mintues. Your fingertips should tingle afterwards.

Sealed Cuticles

I really believe this is one of the biggest KEYS to having healthy hair. African American hair is naturally porous. We have a harder time keeping moisture in our hair due to porosity. Damaged hair also has raised cuticles.

Here are the advantages of having closed cuticles:

1. Moisture is kept into the strand better
2. Detangling is easier
3. Shinier & sleeker hair
4. Less prone to split ends
5. Smooth hair that is soft and silk to the touch
6. Overall healthier hair

This is every woman's goal isn't it? Well let's look at exactly HOW you can achieve this. There are many different products & methods that will help you deal with porosity and raised cuticles.

1. Drink more water! Dry hair breaks easily. Water is a great way to obtain moisture within the strands naturally PLUS its fantastic for your body. DRINK UP! This will work great when you learn how to close the cuticles. You will have your NATURAL moisture.

2. Porosity control shampoo and conditioner. http://www.amazon.com/Roux-Porosity-Control-Corrector-Conditoner/dp/B0002030QO

3. Smoothing conditioners. I personally LOVE matrix sleek look. Look for conditioners that specifically tells their pH level.



4. Shampooing with cool water & conditioner with tepid water. This was recommended on a hair care board. When you think about it, you keep the conditioner from going too deep and stripping your hair from is natural moisture and oils. Im on the fence about this tip. Either way, you need a shampoo that does not have harsh ingredients in them.

5. Rinse with cool to cold water for a few minutes.

6. Rinse with diluted apple cider vinegar. The acidic properties of this natural fluid not only gets rid of residue but it closes the cuticles. Dont worry, the smell goes away. Citric acid is common ingredient in conditioners. Other acids also smooth the cuticles.

7. Blow dry your hair with the air flow going DOWN the hair shaft. Not up..not perpendicular.

8. I like to ONLY blow dry my hair with cool air. It does take longer time I suppose but it feel better than using even the LOWEST heat setting.

9. Smooth your conditioners DOWN your hair.

10. Put your leave in conditioner in the fridge. This will keep it cold and that will help close the cuticles.

11. Protect your hair from wind and other environmental damage. Even keeping your wind speed low on your dryer or the blow dryer further away from your head will help.

12. Also, when using a heating tools such as a flat iron or blow dryer, make sure they are both ionic and ceramic. This keeps moisture in the hair and they help close the cuticle. I personally thing they are waaaaaaay less damaging than the ordinary tools. Limit heat used on your hair and always use heat protectants. Moisture block by Sabino is HIGHLY recommended for heat styling.

Here is what NOT to do:

1. Avoid back combing or "teasing"

2. With blow drying do not point the dryer up or perpendicular.

3. Never rub your hair together between your hands. What do I mean? You know when you wash your hands, you put your hands together and rub them back and forth? Do NOT do that with your hair.

4. Only use silk or satin scarves or bonnets when you sleep. Try not to let your hair even TOUCH other fabrics.

5. use excessive heat.

6. Dont rub your hair with a towel. Blot it with the towel or VERY gently squeeze NOT twist the excess water out of your hair.

Always keep friction to a minimum. Anytime something rubs up against your hair strands in an UPWARD direction, that can damage or open up the cuticles. Closed = roots to tip. Open = tips to roots.

There are many things that will make your hair APPEAR smoothed but in actually, most regular conditioners just coat. Specifically look for those that say they smooth and or close the cuticles. Try some of the methods I have suggested and overtime, you will see a huge difference in your hair. Moisture block by Sabino will protect your cuticles.

My hair texture

I had to blog about this. I just noticed that my new growth is not fine but not thick and coarse. my hair is right in the middle. According to the classification system, that is texture B. I also noticed that when I feel my strand root to tip, my new growth is really smooth, silky, and soft but my relaxed hair is more lumpy and coarse. My regimen is changing soon also. I am narrowing down my products.